Some time ago I received a letter from a debt collector who said I owed a huge debt to their client. This really blew my mind because I don't have a debt with their client except my usual monthly bill. Nevertheless, they persisted in sending harassing letters.
I have found out that as a U.S. citizen, I have the right to tell them to take a hike and leave me alone. Below is the letter I sent that stops the harassment once and for all and gets the debt collector out of the picture so that you can deal with the one who you originally have a problem with.
________________________________________________
To: The Debt Collectors Name, Inc.
P.O. Box 00000
Somewhere, Ga. 00000
From: Herman Munster
66 Mocking Bird Lane
Outthere, NY 00000
Ref: Account #BR549
August 26, 2009
Debt Collectors,
When exactly did I enter into a contract that allowed your company to meddle in my personal affairs? I don't remember signing such a document, much less even agreeing to such an action. Please produce this document if it exists and send me a copy of it.
Nevertheless, I dispute this alleged debt even exists and cannot remember ever making such a debt of the outlandish amount claimed by you or the one you claim to represent. Therefore, please stay out of my personal affairs. If I have a problem with the Telephone Company, then let the Telephone Company handle it.
If you or an agent for your company have made any negative report using my name and personal information to a credit reporting agency, I demand you immediately remove it and return any and all documentation referring to me back to the Telephone Company.
Furthermore, you are not to contact me in any way in the future except by mail to let me know you are complying with my demand.
Thank You,
Herman Munster
________________________________________________
I am no way offering legal advice here but it never hurts to share something that helped me get rid of a headache. Once the collector turns the debt back over to the one who originally started the trouble in the first place, you have the ability to clear it up without having to deal with Debt Collector harassment.
About the Author
Tim Davis is the webmaster for E-Articles R US at http://receivedtext.org/articles and is also an Article Author who's site is at http://101info.org/articles
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Monday, August 24, 2009
I Want To Draw My Own House Plans. Where Do I Start?
To begin there are some things you will need to know. Depending on how much detail your builder and building inspector require, the minimum set of plans should include the floor plan, exterior elevations, foundation or basement plan, and a roof plan drawn to scale.
A scale is nothing more than a shrunken ruler so that 1' -0" (12 inches) would be 1/4 inch long on your drawing. Here then is an example. If we use the scale and draw an eight foot (8') line. In reality the line is only Two inches (2") long on the paper.
What's in a set of house plans:
There's a Floor Plan that's a view of a house you would see if you took a knife and sliced the house to see the walls, windows, doors, etc. from the top, middle way down the walls. This is also called a dimensional plan. Typically all floor plans are drawn at the scale of one quarter inch equals one foot and zero inches. (1/4" = 1'- 0") It should include all the measurements of the walls, windows, and door locations, door and window sizes, stair locations, room labels, locations of exposed beams, cased opening sizes and locations, bathroom layout showing sink vanity, tub or shower, and toilet, kitchen cabinets with appliances & sink fixtures, and construction notes.
Many floor plans include the electrical symbols telling us where the receptacles, light switches, light fixtures, ceiling fans, cable connections, telephone jacks, and meter base are located in the house. These can be included in the dimensional plan but many drafters place it on a separate drawing page.
The Exterior Elevations or views include all four (4) aspects of the house. They are the front, left, rear, & right drawn also at one quarter inch equals one foot and zero inches (1/4" = 1' - 0") scale. Then there are some plans that have the front elevation drawn at 1/4" scale and then the left, rear & right at one eight inch equals one foot and zero inches. (1/8" = 1' - 0") On these views you find notes about what type of siding or veneer, the roof pitch (angles) of the various roofs, grade locations, finished floor & ceiling locations, and a roof plan showing the house from the top view. The roof plan is usually drawn at 1/8" = 1' - 0" scale or 1/16" = 1' - 0" to save space on the drawing.
The Foundation or Basement Plan is the same type as the floor plan showing wall types, footing sizes, floor joist or truss locations, support beams, pilasters or piers, and ventilation vents & openings. The foundation or basement plan is also a dimensional type drawing. Most of these plans are drawn at the scale of 1/4" = 1'- 0".
If the plan is more detailed, then we would see sectional details showing total breakdown of the materials used to construct the home and how they are put together, HVAC (heating and air conditioning) plan, plumbing plan, and cabinet elevations. Even more involved plans would show the types of mouldings, pediments, & trims in greater detail as well.
Tim Davis is a veteran Architectural Designer who teaches a full course in Residential Drafting at http://homedesign.8m.com. He also teaches students how to read and understand blueprints at http://blueprints.8m.com.
A scale is nothing more than a shrunken ruler so that 1' -0" (12 inches) would be 1/4 inch long on your drawing. Here then is an example. If we use the scale and draw an eight foot (8') line. In reality the line is only Two inches (2") long on the paper.
What's in a set of house plans:
There's a Floor Plan that's a view of a house you would see if you took a knife and sliced the house to see the walls, windows, doors, etc. from the top, middle way down the walls. This is also called a dimensional plan. Typically all floor plans are drawn at the scale of one quarter inch equals one foot and zero inches. (1/4" = 1'- 0") It should include all the measurements of the walls, windows, and door locations, door and window sizes, stair locations, room labels, locations of exposed beams, cased opening sizes and locations, bathroom layout showing sink vanity, tub or shower, and toilet, kitchen cabinets with appliances & sink fixtures, and construction notes.
Many floor plans include the electrical symbols telling us where the receptacles, light switches, light fixtures, ceiling fans, cable connections, telephone jacks, and meter base are located in the house. These can be included in the dimensional plan but many drafters place it on a separate drawing page.
The Exterior Elevations or views include all four (4) aspects of the house. They are the front, left, rear, & right drawn also at one quarter inch equals one foot and zero inches (1/4" = 1' - 0") scale. Then there are some plans that have the front elevation drawn at 1/4" scale and then the left, rear & right at one eight inch equals one foot and zero inches. (1/8" = 1' - 0") On these views you find notes about what type of siding or veneer, the roof pitch (angles) of the various roofs, grade locations, finished floor & ceiling locations, and a roof plan showing the house from the top view. The roof plan is usually drawn at 1/8" = 1' - 0" scale or 1/16" = 1' - 0" to save space on the drawing.
The Foundation or Basement Plan is the same type as the floor plan showing wall types, footing sizes, floor joist or truss locations, support beams, pilasters or piers, and ventilation vents & openings. The foundation or basement plan is also a dimensional type drawing. Most of these plans are drawn at the scale of 1/4" = 1'- 0".
If the plan is more detailed, then we would see sectional details showing total breakdown of the materials used to construct the home and how they are put together, HVAC (heating and air conditioning) plan, plumbing plan, and cabinet elevations. Even more involved plans would show the types of mouldings, pediments, & trims in greater detail as well.
Tim Davis is a veteran Architectural Designer who teaches a full course in Residential Drafting at http://homedesign.8m.com. He also teaches students how to read and understand blueprints at http://blueprints.8m.com.
Building a New Home
If you have never had a new home built, it can be a daunting task. In order to start the process you need to know what's involved. I'm hoping this article can give you at least an idea of what's involved.
1. When selecting the right property for your home you'll need to make yourself a check list of what you are wanting in a lot. If you don't choose the right location, it could ruin the entire experience.
2. Spend as much time as possible in the design stage of your home. Sit with your spouse and create a dream sheet or sketch of what you're wanting. Make sure there are enough bathrooms for your family and special area's for things like crafts and hobbies. Bedroom locations and sizes are very important also. Consider what areas of the house will be used for the entire family. Is there an adequate Family Room, Kitchen and Dining area? One major aspect of a home that is overlooked is storage. Make sure this also is one of your considerations.
3. Take your sketches or dream sheet to a qualified Architect, Designer or Home Drafter and see what ideas they may have that you have missed. Then hire the one you feel most comfortable in dealing with. It will be their job to make sure your home meets building codes and requirements and flows the way you intend it to.
4. Interview as many contractors as possible. Check their references and ask to see some of their completed jobs. Once you decide on a contractor, make sure that you have one special set of plans for you and your contractor to sign off on. As construction proceeds and changes are made, note them on that special set of plans and both of you initial the change so that when the job is complete, it will be reflected on the set of drawings so there are no surprises. Try not to take possession of the new home until all is complete and you are satisfied with the craftsmanship.
5. If you have to go through a plan review with a HMO or building inspector, either your designer or contractor can handle this for you. It's probably best to have to one who drew the plans handle this process as whatever changes that have to be made with the plans won't have to pass through a middle man.
Tim Davis is a fully trained Architectural Designer with 20+ years experience. His home design website is at http://customhouseplans.8m.com. He's also webmaster of the Building Trades and Real Estate Articles Directory at http://draftingservice.us/homes/
1. When selecting the right property for your home you'll need to make yourself a check list of what you are wanting in a lot. If you don't choose the right location, it could ruin the entire experience.
2. Spend as much time as possible in the design stage of your home. Sit with your spouse and create a dream sheet or sketch of what you're wanting. Make sure there are enough bathrooms for your family and special area's for things like crafts and hobbies. Bedroom locations and sizes are very important also. Consider what areas of the house will be used for the entire family. Is there an adequate Family Room, Kitchen and Dining area? One major aspect of a home that is overlooked is storage. Make sure this also is one of your considerations.
3. Take your sketches or dream sheet to a qualified Architect, Designer or Home Drafter and see what ideas they may have that you have missed. Then hire the one you feel most comfortable in dealing with. It will be their job to make sure your home meets building codes and requirements and flows the way you intend it to.
4. Interview as many contractors as possible. Check their references and ask to see some of their completed jobs. Once you decide on a contractor, make sure that you have one special set of plans for you and your contractor to sign off on. As construction proceeds and changes are made, note them on that special set of plans and both of you initial the change so that when the job is complete, it will be reflected on the set of drawings so there are no surprises. Try not to take possession of the new home until all is complete and you are satisfied with the craftsmanship.
5. If you have to go through a plan review with a HMO or building inspector, either your designer or contractor can handle this for you. It's probably best to have to one who drew the plans handle this process as whatever changes that have to be made with the plans won't have to pass through a middle man.
Tim Davis is a fully trained Architectural Designer with 20+ years experience. His home design website is at http://customhouseplans.8m.com. He's also webmaster of the Building Trades and Real Estate Articles Directory at http://draftingservice.us/homes/
Sunday, August 23, 2009
New Article Directory for the New Home Construction Industry
Announcing a new article directory specifically for the new home construction and sales interests called Building Trades and Real Estate Articles. This site covers most of the areas of residential construction from design, to Engineering, to erection, and marketing. Please visit. If you're an article author for the building industry, please feel free to make an account and submit your articles.
http://draftingservice.us/homes/
http://draftingservice.us/homes/
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Material Take-Off Lists from a House Plan
Ok, so you've purchased a piece of property and have a home plan and want to figure out the cost of building it. So what next? Maybe you are looking to get a job with a building contractor and material lists will be one of the things you'll need to know how to do. Well, here in a nut shell is how some of it's done. Most all that you need is a good understanding of math and a little patients.
For instance, let's say you want to know how many 2 inch x 4 inch studs are going into the walls. If you look at the details of your plans, you'll find out how far your studs are spaced. Most are at 16 inches on center. If this be the case, then say you have a 10 foot wall. There is 12 inches in a foot so simple math would tell you that there is 120 inches in 10 feet. Divide 120 inches by 16 inches and you come up with 7 and 1/2 or 7.5. Meaning you have seven and one half studs in the wall. Round that off to 8 and you have it.
How about the bottom and top plates? These are 2 inch x 4 inch pieces of lumber too. Looking at your drawing section you find that you have 1 - 2 inch x 4 inch bottom plate and 2 - 2 inch x 4 inch top plates. So you have 3 - 2 inch x 4 inch plates and the wall is 10 feet long so you will need 30 feet of 2 inch x 4 inch lumber.
Are you seeing how it works so far? Good! Lets take it to the next step. How about floor decking? If your room is 10 foot wide by 10 feet long that is 100 square feet. Right? You multiply the width by the depth. Sheets of plywood come in 4 foot by 8 feet sheets which makes 32 square feet. Divide 100 square feet by 32 square feet and you have 3 and 1/8th sheets or 4 sheets.
The same could be done for the exterior wall sheathing which is either OSB (particle board) or plywood. Lets say you have a 32 foot exterior wall that is 8 feet tall. The OSB or plywood comes as you know in 4 feet by 8 foot sheets. You could either divide the square footage of the wall, but we already know the wall is 8 feet high, or divide 32 feet which is the length of the wall by 4 feet, and you would come up with 8 sheets.
Of course the process involves counting windows and doors and their sizes, cabinet sizes and quantities, Light fixtures, plumbing fixtures, roof trusses and coverings, etc. And I know these were actually simple illustrations and it can be more complex, but this is the general method of material take-off.
My name is Tim Davis and I draw architectural plans for a living. I also teach Architectural Blueprint Reading at http://blueprints.8m.com
For instance, let's say you want to know how many 2 inch x 4 inch studs are going into the walls. If you look at the details of your plans, you'll find out how far your studs are spaced. Most are at 16 inches on center. If this be the case, then say you have a 10 foot wall. There is 12 inches in a foot so simple math would tell you that there is 120 inches in 10 feet. Divide 120 inches by 16 inches and you come up with 7 and 1/2 or 7.5. Meaning you have seven and one half studs in the wall. Round that off to 8 and you have it.
How about the bottom and top plates? These are 2 inch x 4 inch pieces of lumber too. Looking at your drawing section you find that you have 1 - 2 inch x 4 inch bottom plate and 2 - 2 inch x 4 inch top plates. So you have 3 - 2 inch x 4 inch plates and the wall is 10 feet long so you will need 30 feet of 2 inch x 4 inch lumber.
Are you seeing how it works so far? Good! Lets take it to the next step. How about floor decking? If your room is 10 foot wide by 10 feet long that is 100 square feet. Right? You multiply the width by the depth. Sheets of plywood come in 4 foot by 8 feet sheets which makes 32 square feet. Divide 100 square feet by 32 square feet and you have 3 and 1/8th sheets or 4 sheets.
The same could be done for the exterior wall sheathing which is either OSB (particle board) or plywood. Lets say you have a 32 foot exterior wall that is 8 feet tall. The OSB or plywood comes as you know in 4 feet by 8 foot sheets. You could either divide the square footage of the wall, but we already know the wall is 8 feet high, or divide 32 feet which is the length of the wall by 4 feet, and you would come up with 8 sheets.
Of course the process involves counting windows and doors and their sizes, cabinet sizes and quantities, Light fixtures, plumbing fixtures, roof trusses and coverings, etc. And I know these were actually simple illustrations and it can be more complex, but this is the general method of material take-off.
My name is Tim Davis and I draw architectural plans for a living. I also teach Architectural Blueprint Reading at http://blueprints.8m.com
Friday, August 7, 2009
Reading House Plans for Real Estate Appraisal
Especially if you are appraising a newer home, the possibilities are good that an architectural plan is available for the home. If so, you need to know what you are looking at. In this article, I plan to break down the basic sheets usually found in a set of house blueprints.
The Floor Plan
This is the page that lets you know what the layout of the house looks like. A house plan is basically a drawing that depicts the house if it were cut with a knife on a horizontal plane allowing you to look past the roof down into the rooms. There should be over all dimensions, room names, fixture labels, door and window sizes and styles, etc. Sometimes these plans include an electrical floor plan which is the floor plan with the electrical fixture locations.
The Elevations
You will probably find a sheet with all the exterior views of the home also which are called elevations. These will probably have the types of siding, roof pitches (angles), shutter types, grade heights (ground levels), trim types, and so on.
Foundation or Basement Plan
If the plan is complete there should be either a foundation or basement plan. If so, you can find out what the house was built on and what types of joists or trusses are supporting it.
HVAC and Plumbing Plan
This plan is particularly handy as you can see how the duct work is layed out for the Heating and air conditioning. You will also be able to tell what type of plumbing pipes have been used and what sizes.
Sectional Drawing and Special Details
A sectional drawing is where we cut an imaginary line vertically through the house to expose the elements that create the structure. With these drawings you can tell any special materials or methods were used in the construction of the home.
My name is Tim Davis and I draw architectural plans for a living. I also teach Architectural Blueprint Reading at http://blueprints.8m.com
The Floor Plan
This is the page that lets you know what the layout of the house looks like. A house plan is basically a drawing that depicts the house if it were cut with a knife on a horizontal plane allowing you to look past the roof down into the rooms. There should be over all dimensions, room names, fixture labels, door and window sizes and styles, etc. Sometimes these plans include an electrical floor plan which is the floor plan with the electrical fixture locations.
The Elevations
You will probably find a sheet with all the exterior views of the home also which are called elevations. These will probably have the types of siding, roof pitches (angles), shutter types, grade heights (ground levels), trim types, and so on.
Foundation or Basement Plan
If the plan is complete there should be either a foundation or basement plan. If so, you can find out what the house was built on and what types of joists or trusses are supporting it.
HVAC and Plumbing Plan
This plan is particularly handy as you can see how the duct work is layed out for the Heating and air conditioning. You will also be able to tell what type of plumbing pipes have been used and what sizes.
Sectional Drawing and Special Details
A sectional drawing is where we cut an imaginary line vertically through the house to expose the elements that create the structure. With these drawings you can tell any special materials or methods were used in the construction of the home.
My name is Tim Davis and I draw architectural plans for a living. I also teach Architectural Blueprint Reading at http://blueprints.8m.com
Beginner's Guide to Understanding a Set of House Plans
Depending on how much detail your builder or local building inspector requires, the minimum set of plans should include the floor plan, exterior elevations, foundation or basement plan, and a roof plan drawn to scale.
Just so you'll know, a scale is nothing more than a shrunken ruler so that 1' -0" (12 inches) is now 1/4 inch long as far as your drawing is concerned. So here then is an example. If we use a scale to draw an 8' line. in reality the line is only 2 inches long on the paper in real life.
So let's see what's included in a set of plans:
A Floor Plan is a view of a house that would be seen if you were to take a knife and slice the house to see the walls, windows, doors, etc. from the top about mid ways down the walls. This is also called the dimensional plan. Most all floor plans are drawn at the scale of 1/4" = 1'- 0". It should include all the dimensions (measurements) of the wall, window, and door locations, door and window sizes, stair locations, room labels, locations of exposed beams, cased opening sizes and locations, bathroom layout showing sink vanity, tub, and toilet, kitchen cabinets with appliances & sink fixtures, and construction notes.
Some floor plans include the electrical symbols showing the receptacles, light switches, light fixtures, ceiling fans, cable connections, telephone jacks, and meter base locations. These can be included in the dimensional plan but many opt to have it on a separate drawing.
The Exterior Elevations include all four (4) views of the home which are front, left, rear, & right drawn also at 1/4" = 1' - 0" scale. The are some plans that have the front elevation drawn at 1/4" scale and then the left, rear & right at 1/8" = 1' - 0" On these views are notes about what type of siding or veneer, the roof pitches (angles), grade locations, finished floor & ceiling locations, and a roof plan showing the house from the top view. The roof plan is usually drawn at 1/8" = 1' - 0" scale or 1/16" = 1' - 0".
The Foundation or Basement Plan is the same type as the floor plan showing wall types, footing sizes, floor joist or truss locations, support beams, pilasters or piers, and ventilation vents & openings. The foundation or basement plan is also a dimensional type drawing. Most of these plans are drawn at the scale of 1/4" = 1'- 0".
If the plan is more detailed, then we would see sectional details showing the wall and roof construction of the home, HVAC plan, plumbing plan, and cabinet elevations. Even more involved plans would show the types of moldings, pediments, & trims in greater detail.
Tim Davis is a veteran Architectural Designer who teaches a full course in Residential Drafting at http://homedesign.8m.com. He also teaches students how to read and understand blueprints at http://blueprints.8m.com
Just so you'll know, a scale is nothing more than a shrunken ruler so that 1' -0" (12 inches) is now 1/4 inch long as far as your drawing is concerned. So here then is an example. If we use a scale to draw an 8' line. in reality the line is only 2 inches long on the paper in real life.
So let's see what's included in a set of plans:
A Floor Plan is a view of a house that would be seen if you were to take a knife and slice the house to see the walls, windows, doors, etc. from the top about mid ways down the walls. This is also called the dimensional plan. Most all floor plans are drawn at the scale of 1/4" = 1'- 0". It should include all the dimensions (measurements) of the wall, window, and door locations, door and window sizes, stair locations, room labels, locations of exposed beams, cased opening sizes and locations, bathroom layout showing sink vanity, tub, and toilet, kitchen cabinets with appliances & sink fixtures, and construction notes.
Some floor plans include the electrical symbols showing the receptacles, light switches, light fixtures, ceiling fans, cable connections, telephone jacks, and meter base locations. These can be included in the dimensional plan but many opt to have it on a separate drawing.
The Exterior Elevations include all four (4) views of the home which are front, left, rear, & right drawn also at 1/4" = 1' - 0" scale. The are some plans that have the front elevation drawn at 1/4" scale and then the left, rear & right at 1/8" = 1' - 0" On these views are notes about what type of siding or veneer, the roof pitches (angles), grade locations, finished floor & ceiling locations, and a roof plan showing the house from the top view. The roof plan is usually drawn at 1/8" = 1' - 0" scale or 1/16" = 1' - 0".
The Foundation or Basement Plan is the same type as the floor plan showing wall types, footing sizes, floor joist or truss locations, support beams, pilasters or piers, and ventilation vents & openings. The foundation or basement plan is also a dimensional type drawing. Most of these plans are drawn at the scale of 1/4" = 1'- 0".
If the plan is more detailed, then we would see sectional details showing the wall and roof construction of the home, HVAC plan, plumbing plan, and cabinet elevations. Even more involved plans would show the types of moldings, pediments, & trims in greater detail.
Tim Davis is a veteran Architectural Designer who teaches a full course in Residential Drafting at http://homedesign.8m.com. He also teaches students how to read and understand blueprints at http://blueprints.8m.com
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