A Queen Anne House

A Queen Anne House
 

Design Examples in Classic Vintage Architecture
 

The design shown in the following drawings is a good example of a country residence in the Queen Anne style home. It's suitable for a family with a little extra money to spend. Building it requires a minimum lot measuring about fifty to seventy-five feet on the front. The basement is around nine feet in height, and extends under every part of the house except the parlor. The area, foundation walls, and chimneys, are of poured concrete or masonry block and are supported on a twenty four inch wide by eight to ten inch deep steel reinforced concrete footing.

The tops of the chimneys and the foundation walls which are about three feet above the grade line, are veneered in red brick. The bottom of the cellar (basement) is concreted four inches deep and reinforced. The basement doorway, window sills, and outside basement steps, are blue stone set in the masonry. The first story is ten feet in height, and contains a kitchen, dining-room, library, parlor, a large hall, and a sufficient number of closets and pantries.
 

The second story is nine feet in height, and contains five chambers (bedrooms), each with a closet, and a separate bathroom. The attic contains two bedrooms of good size, and a storeroom. The flues in the chimneys are built separate and continuously to the top, with clay thimbles or metal flues set in the brick-work where directed on the plans. The fire-places in the parlor and dining room have open grates, and mantels to match the ornate woodwork of these two rooms, and have tile facings, and hearths of selected patterns.

The frame of the building is of solid, seasoned spruce or southern yellow pine, of the following dimensions: girders, six by eight inches; sills, four by eight inches; floor beams, two by ten inches; headers and trimmers, four by ten inches; attic ceiling beams, two by six inches; outside studding, three by four inches; door and window studding, four by four inches; inside studding, two by four inches ; rafters, two by six inches; hips and valleys, three by eight inches; plates, four by six inches; veranda sills, four by six inches; veranda plates, four by six inches; veranda rafters, three .by five inches; veranda beams, three by six inches; veranda ceiling beams, two by four inches; balcony posts, six by six inches; bridging timber, two by two inches.

The studding and floor beams are placed sixteen inches from centers, all strongly bridged. The exterior of the building is sheathed with dry, tongue and grooved, mill-worked spruce, driven tightly together, and securely nailed to each stud. The side walls of the lower story are covered with dry, clear white pine, and beveled siding. The side walls of the second story are shingled with best quality white pine or cedar shingles, and the roofs are slated with good quality black slate, put on with galvanized iron nails. The main ridge is surmounted with a terra cotta cresting. The finial on the tower is of galvanized steel.
 

The basement window frames are of plank, with casement sash, which are glazed with single-thick glass. All other windows have one and one-eighth inch jambs, and two inch rabbeted sills, with one and one-eighth inch blind hanging stiles, all of dry white pine, free from knots or blemishes. The sashes are one and one-half inch in thickness, glazed with double-thick French glass, and balanced with cast-iron weights, and brown hempen cord. Outside blinds to all windows except basement and attic. The front door is veneered with oak, is two inches thick, with five raised panels, molded both sides. The doors in the attic are one and one-quarter inch thick, with four plain panels. The "outside" basement door is built of tongued and grooved white pine, securely nailed to strong cleats with wrought iron clinch nails. All other doors are of white pine, one and one-half inch thick, five-paneled, and molded both sides. The veranda and balcony posts, outside door and window casings, railings, steps, belt courses, gutters, corner boards, etc., are of dry, sound white pine, with all the necessary moldings. The floors of the first and second stories are of kiln-dried yellow pine; veranda and balcony floors are of white pine, laid in paint; attic floor of spruce, all well driven together, and blind nailed to each bearing. The balcony floor is covered with sheet lead, and made water tight. The architraves and wainscoting in kitchen and pantry are of yellow pine.

The architraves (main beam resting across the tops of columns), skirting boards and panel backs in dining-room and hall are of oak; in the library of cedar; in the parlor of white pine, stained to look like mahogany. The bath-room is fitted in white ash, finished with a coat of wood filler, and two coats of wood preservative, rubbed smooth with pumice stone and oil. All other inside wood-work of white pine, painted three coats as directed. The stairs to the basement are built of dimensional lumber in the usual way. Main stairs of oak, with turned newels and balusters, properly filled and polished. The pantry is fitted with shelves, and all closets with wardrobe hooks and upper shelves, as directed on the plans. Hard wood saddles are placed under all doors, and rubber tipped door-stops are attached to the bases. The front dining-room, library and parlor doors, have bronze knobs, butts, roses, drops, and escutcheons, and bronze-faced mortise locks. The attic doors have brown mineral knobs, and black iron butts, roses, drops, and escutcheons, and ordinary rim locks. All other doors have black porcelain knobs, roses, drops, and escutcheons (A flat piece of metal for protection and often ornamentation, around a keyhole, door handle, or light switch), black iron butts, and brass-faced mortise locks. Bronze sash locks for the dining-room, hall, and library. Bronzed iron sash locks for other windows. A gong bell with all the required attachments, is placed in the front hall. All exterior tin work, iron and woodwork has three coats of a hardy enamel paint.

The small moldings and narrow projections of the cornices, which are some of the characteristic features of the Queen Anne style, give a building an unsatisfactory appearance without a proper selection and combination of colors, and a proper use of materials. Great care should be exercised in deciding which colors are used. Shades of warm browns are always pleasing, and suggest hospitality and comfort.

Tim Davis is a seasoned architectural designer with over 30 years experience. If you wish to have him design your own Queen Anne home, go to http://customhouseplans.8m.com. He also teaches residential architectural drafting online at http://homedesign.8m.com. One of the courses he's offering is called Vintage House Plans 101 at http://drafting101.com/vintage/ where he teaches students how to draw these classic homes in their preserved styles.

Barn to Home Conversion How-To

Converting a Barn into a Home, online course. Donations are welcome: http://drafting101.com/barnhome/

Step by step instructions on how to convert a Barn into a Home.

What the Drafter/Draftsman Should Know

When studying mechanical drawing, it's important to know what is involved in becoming a designer or drafter who, instead of just making drawings of the plans of others, is just as able to do original work themselves. To begin with, the ability to originate or make improvements on plans and designs can be developed by studying what others have done in this field. It often happens that the way we operate one device can be applied to some other devices which are used for a completely different purpose. This way, the original idea is made more useful because it's used for more than one purpose.

While this really isn't original work so to speak, the fact is that very few mechanical appliances are totally thought up by one person. Also, it may not always be a good idea in machine design to attempt to be entirely original but apply what's known with all certainty to be sound in theory and in practice. This doesn't mean that the inventor or designer should not think for themselves or that they should deliberately borrow the ideas of others, but simply that they should proceed with caution when attempting to improve or change entirely some commonly accepted method or principle which has been completely tested in practice.

The drafter whose work isn't limited simply to drawing lines on paper, has to have a working knowledge of mechanical principles, the various known methods of creating and modifying motion, and how to make the parts of tools and machines the right size so that they can resist the stresses they're going to be subjected to. Many failed designs have been the direct result of ignorance of basic mechanical principles.

Another requirement is a good knowledge of the art of drawing. For a drafter to be successful in their field, they must know more than how to make mechanical drawings. Nevertheless this is a major part of their work, because drawings that don't clearly represent the object drawn are bad news in the fabrication shop and will probably cause serious mistakes. Delays in the machine or wood shop are often caused by poor drawings that are lacking in things like dimensions, or the arrangement and number of the views, or in some other respect.

Therefore, a good education in this field is totally necessary for industry to produce the products we use today. Sure, CAD programs have made life easier producing more accurate drawings than ever before, but if we put a lack of knowledge in, the end result is a lack of knowledge coming out.

About the Author

Tim Davis is the author of Mechanical Drafting 101 at http://draftingservice.us/m101/ which is a very complete course in mechanical drawing.

Magnet Motor Cooperative

Are you interested in participating in the free energy movement? There are many who are experimenting with Magnetic motors to make this free energy dream a reality. Please go to the Magnetic Motors Discussion Board at http://maginvent.com/forum/ to find out more.

Starting a Drafting Service

Once you receive the necessary education from either a good technical school or from apprenticeship under a professional designer, drafter, architect, or engineer, many people venture out to open their own drafting office. You need to make sure that you have enough training and expertise to go out on your own. Technical drawing is a highly specialized field, and if practiced poorly can injure your reputation as a professional and your personal credibility.

With science and technology the way it is today, very few people complete drawings using a drafting or drawing board, thanks to the advent of computer generated drawings using a CAD (Computer Aided Drafting) program. A well designed CAD program not only makes it easier to open an office but also makes it much less expensive because of their ease of use and accuracy. Most drafting offices can be run out of your living room or den with nothing more than a laptop or desktop computer and a professional CAD program. There are however certain other considerations before going into this type of business.

One of these would be the needed library of reference books that are not available online. This would be books like "Architectural Graphic Standards" or "ANSI Standards for Mechanical Drawing", although certain portions of both of these books are available on line on the Internet. If you are doing architecture, a good selection of plan books would be a handy resource. Not to copy from however, that would be a bad thing, but as a fresh source of ideas you can suggest to your clients.

A good electronic symbols library for your CAD would be great too. This saves time, which is precious by the way, to not have to re-draw the same thing over and over. There are several websites offering them for sale and a few free download sites also.
Another thing would be a web site presence where you can advertise your services and also display drawings at certain stages to your client from the comfort of their home. I've been using this process for at least ten years and the clients love it. They have access to their drawings any time of day or night. And instead of waiting on the mail, the changes you make to their drawings can be reviewed almost instantly after you upload them.

You might also consider talking to your local insurance agent about some sort of malpractice insurance. Better safe than sorry. And with any new businesses it is always good to hire a bookkeeper to help you keep up with your taxes.

If you want to learn to draw mechanical drawings, including survey, and architectural, go to http://maginvent.com and learn online.

The Nature and Uses of Mechanical Drafting.

Mechanical drafting or mechanical drawing is the art of making the conventional pictures representing something that has to be constructed which is used by engineers, architects, and inventors in working out and recording the details of their constructive designs, and the means by which ideas of the exact form or shape, dimension, and arrangement of parts in objects of a structural character are universally expressed and made easier to be understood by others.

Mechanical drafting aids constructive work of any kind to be carried on with accuracy and the least amount of time and material, and takes the place of a lengthy verbal description which would fail to express with clearness and exactness the definite information required by the workman.

Certain general peculiarities of the form and structure of an object may be understood from an ordinary pictorial representation, but that it cannot show the exact form, size, and relation of all the lines and surfaces; so the necessity for mechanical drawings which show all hidden as well as visible parts of an object as they are and not as they would appear to the eye.

So then mechanical drafting is the graphic language of the constructive or mechanic arts, and the ability to read and comprehend mechanical drawings is of as great importance to the workman, builder, and manufacturer as the ability to make such representations is to the designer or drafter; and a knowledge of general drafting principles is of value to almost all people irrespective of their vocations.

Because of the exact nature of the facts which it is intended to record or convey the drawing is generally executed with the aid of drafting instruments or a Computer Aided Drafting (CAD) program. The mechanical character of the representation, together with its purpose and the usual means of execution, gives mechanical drafting its name. Machine drafting, architectural drafting, and engineering drafting are specific applications of mechanical drafting. A mechanical drawing properly dimensioned in figures and prepared as a guide in constructing the object is called a working drawing.

If you want to learn to draw mechanical drawings, including survey and architectural, go to http://101info.org and learn online.

Would You Like To Design Your Own House Plan

Very good idea, it saves the money. Also eliminates the middle man. Architects and designers can be expensive. I heard that some designers can load up to ten dollars per square foot for simple drawings containing a floor plan and exterior elevations. Now that's a chunk of change. If you want to do it yourself, you need to know how. Here are some things that need to know to draw a simple ranch style.

What you need to know to make your house plan?

First, you should know how to get your floor plan. The floor plan is the model for all drawings. Since the floor plan shows how we want our electricity, tells how the rooms are large, shows our window and door sizes, etc., so that's where we begin. Of course, you can start with the view outside, but it would limit how our home looks like outside. Not a good idea! The house must be functional first and look pretty second out of necessity.

Second, You need to understand the workings of a well-designed kitchen. The kitchen is the place where the owner spends most of his time. Beautiful, but functional. This area consists of sink area, kitchenette, and storage. The best kitchen layout is one in which at least steps to reach each unit. This is called the work area or working triangle. A good up working triangle to 12-14 feet all around.

Third, a home builder would definitely like to know where the walls, windows and doors are located exactly. They would also like to know the door and the window sizes, not to mention something specific that's special to the plan. Here, the dimensions and notes are useful. You need to to create a dimensional string and groups of notes that are not confusing to the reader.

Fourth, The Electric plan is very important because it gives you the opportunity to show where you need electrical service. On the other hand, is not always necessary. An experienced electrical contractor will know where to place everything as required by code. Chances are, they have already set up quite a few residences and barring any special needs or preferences can do the job without this plan.

Some States and municipalities require that you have a licensed Architect or Electrical Engineer to do Electrical plans. Check with your local building codes to see what the limitations are! This will definitely save you some headaches on the road.

Fifth, standard foundation construction, at least in the southeastern United States, the houses built on masonry foundations and basements. A foundation is the part of the house we anchor to in order to prevented the house from settling in the soil.

What about the 6th how the outside will look? It is not easy, if you want to convey the idea of ​​what the finished product will look like when construction is complete. What it looks like when built? How to determine the best roof, we use the brick, siding or rock?

Seventh, I don't believe in mind reading! Neither does the normal contractor! If there is anything specific you want to build into your new house, how is the builder going to know unless you show them on the drawings? You can make all kinds of notes on your plans and elevations but the message of how you want the house constructed may not always be clear. You'll need to understand how to draw details.

Then there is the eighth task of finishing your drawings and not let errors get out the door. You should understand the most common errors committed by people who draw house plans so you can keep an eye out for them!

And ninth, Last but not least in preparing your house plans is how to print them and in what format and size.

My name is Tim Davis and I draw architectural plans for a living. I also teach others how to draw house plans and other types of drafting in a virtual classroom on the internet called 101 Info Dot Org at http://101info.org

Building A Magnetic Generator For Your Home

It amounts to free energy. Believe it or not, the technology is here. Actually scientists have known how to build these for years. One of the leading ones was a man by the name of Tesla who pioneered the design in the early twentieth century. Tesla designed a motor that would run totally on magnetic power.

Another was a man in the later twentieth century named Howard Johnson (like the motel) using the same basic principles as Tesla. Johnson's motor however was more compact and easier to construct. In 1980, his motor was featured in Science & Mechanics magazine. He also received three patents from the U.S. Patent Office after he produced a totally functional device. You can find several copies of his blueprints online.

If you search You Tube for “magnetic motors”, you will see the wealth of different methods to build one. Some sound and some not so sound, but they all will give you an idea of the potential these new contraptions have for producing free electricity. I have several prototypes I’ve built in my own workshop.

The process of building one relies on the attractive and repulsive nature of magnets. If arranged in the right pattern, in the proper polarity, something close to or right at perpetual motion takes place. These forces create mechanical energy that will run a generator. Essentially, you can fire the electric power board. No more electricity bills.

It's been said that this type of device is impossible by mainstream science because it breaks their laws of thermodynamics. That law however doesn't take into account that unlike electrical current, magnetic forces do not run in the direction of the least resistance like electricity. The electrons of a magnet are constantly spinning which causes a totally different effect.

If you are a Green Peace - tree hugging type, this ought to make you a happy camper. These machines produce no green house gasses or any pollution whatsoever. Totally pollution free because it uses forces that are naturally energy producing in nature.

Building one is actually quite affordable. Some who sell the plans to these are only charging fifty or sixty dollars and the materials may cost about a little more than double that. All that is left is your time in building one.

One more little tidbit if you will. These motors also can generate their own electrical current. Imagine what would happen if that aspect could be perfected. The result would be a machine that didn't need a generator attached at all to supply our need for electricity.

Tim Davis is a trained mechanical drafter who runs a message board geared to help in the collaboration of building magnetic motors. The website is at http://maginvent.com/forum/index.php

Magnetic Motors

Think about it… Free energy from a mechanism that is simple enough to build in a basement or garage for less that a couple of hundred bucks in a few days depending on your skills. Some call it zero point module like from the television show Stargate, I just call it the “fire the utility company device”.

Since Tesla developed his first magnet motor that he said “harnessed the power of the universe”, men have been trying to develop what was know as the perpetual motion machine. Perpetual motion I believe is impossible but close to perpetual isn’t. Magnets, like the rare earth keep their attraction for centuries. So if you build a motor that drives a generator that will outlive three or four generations, is that cool or what? The best part is that the only money that will have to be spent would be for the construction of the apparatus and the occasional maintenance of the bearings and replacement of problematic magnets or hardware.

There are several concepts for motor construction right now. The most prominent of these would be the Perendev motor which is a clam-shell device using opposing magnets. When the clam-shell is drawn together, the magnets repel one another in unity and the motor starts on it’s own.

I’ve started a message board called Magnetic Motors Discussion Board at http://drafting101.com/magnets/index.php where you can post your videos, share ideas with other inventors and hobbyists, or discuss whatever related to magnet motors. Please visit, register, and start or take part on the discussions. See you there.

Tim Davis

Some considerations for a residential electrical plan

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